Emerald, the May birthstone, has captivated hearts for centuries with its rich color and timeless beauty. Whether you’re wondering what is the birthstone for May or simply curious about why emeralds continue to enchant jewelry lovers, you can learn the fascinating history, symbolism, jewelry design, and shopping tips for this vivid green gem.
This beautiful signature ring was hand made at Secrete Fine Jewelry’s Bethesda workshop. It showcases the enchanting beauty of The May Birthstone: the emerald.
Emerald Symbolism and History: A Legacy of Green
Emerald’s lush green color has soothed souls and sparked imaginations since ancient times. Its name stems from the Greek word “smaragdus,” meaning green. The ancient Roman author Pliny the Elder said of emeralds, “…nothing greens greener.” Definitely agree with that.
Early gem cutters believed that gazing at emeralds could relieve eye strain and fatigue. Even today, the color green is associated with stress relief and calmness. There are other green gems, like peridot and tourmaline, but emerald stands apart as the symbol of the richest landscapes. Think of Ireland, famously known as the Emerald Isle, or Seattle, nicknamed the Emerald City.

We created this beautiful emerald and diamond necklace featuring emeralds in two shades of green and two shapes, surrounded by diamonds on a diamond-studded chain. We love the way this highlights the beauty of this stone.
Emeralds were first mined in ancient Egypt. The famous jewelry-icon and pharaoh Cleopatra had a famous love for the stone, using it in her royal jewels. Later, emeralds from Colombia were sought by Spanish explorers, who traded them throughout Europe and Asia, spreading their fame even further.
Different legends from many cultures claim emeralds could reveal truths, protect against evil, or even give you psychic abilities. Most commonly, though, they are associated with renewal as their rich green color reminds people of abundant gardens. Their symbolism of rebirth and renewal makes emeralds a fitting May birthstone, a month when gardens are in full bloom.

Secrete created this beautiful bezel-set emerald engagement ring for a Washington, DC couple several years ago. The bezel setting and diamond halo shield the emerald from potential damage. In 18k white gold with an 18k rose gold shank, this beautiful and unique ring has a vintage-style charm. To create a bezel-set emerald engagement ring of your own, contact us today to get started.
Emeralds in Jewelry Design: Beauty with Care
In jewelry design, emeralds are cherished for their vibrant color but require thoughtful handling. On the Mohs scale of hardness, emeralds score between 7.5 and 8. While durable, they are more prone to scratches compared to diamonds or sapphires.
Because of this, some people avoid using emeralds in rings worn every day, like emerald engagement rings. Rings, both engagement rings and cocktail rings, tend to endure more bumps and knocks compared to other pieces of jewelry. Many people choose emeralds for earrings or necklaces, because you’re much more likely to accidentally bump your hand against something than you are to bump your earlobe. Other people choose green sapphires for engagement rings because they are less likely to scratch. However, the color of most green sapphires really cannot compare with the beautiful green of an emerald.
However, for those who really love emeralds, there are ways to make emerald engagement rings and emerald cocktail rings work. Protective bezel settings and low-profile designs can help safeguard these precious gems. Or, you can simply take your ring off before cleaning, doing hobbies, or exercising to make sure it stays perfect and unharmed. After all, plenty of emerald rings have survived centuries.
If you’re dreaming of creating a one-of-a-kind emerald piece, you can schedule a personal design consultation for custom emerald jewelry here.

Secrete reused emeralds from a couple’s family jewelry to create this beautiful emerald eternity band. We made it stackable to wear with the diamond eternity band or on its own.
How to Shop for Emerald Jewelry, the May Birthstone
When buying emerald jewelry, understanding the “Four Cs” (color, clarity, cut, and carat weight) is essential.
Color
Color is the most important quality factor for emeralds. According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), “The most desirable emerald colors are bluish green to pure green, with vivid color saturation.” A deep, vibrant green is ideal.
Clarity
Emeralds often have natural inclusions, charmingly called “jardin” (French for “garden”). These inclusions are expected and do not necessarily reduce the stone’s beauty. In fact, they add character and help distinguish a genuine emerald. Clarity is valued lower than color for emeralds, so if you’re comparing a clear light green stone (one that looks like a green apple Jolly Rancher) versus a more vibrant deep green stone with some inclusions, chances are, carat per carat, the better color will be worth more.
Cut
Due to their natural crystal shape, emeralds are often cut into rectangular step cuts, known as the “emerald cut.” This style not only showcases their color but also helps protect the stone from damage.
Carat Weight
Even though emeralds are less dense than diamonds (theoretically meaning a one-carat emerald will appear larger than a one-carat diamond), many emeralds are cut a little deeper than their diamond counterparts to enhance the visual perception of color. Each stone will be slightly different. It’s good to visit a trusted jeweler in person to see how each stone looks on your hand.

This Secrete Fine Jewelry signature ring showcases both cabochon and faceted emeralds, bezel set in yellow gold and accented with diamonds. Each of our signature rings is handmade in Bethesda, MD, and completely unique.
Treatments to Know
Emeralds often get treated to improve their appearance. Sometimes, gem dealers treat surface-reaching fractures by filling them with oils, waxes, or synthetic resins. These fillings make inclusions less visible and enhance clarity. However, treatments have varying degrees of durability and can be affected by heat, air pressure changes, or chemicals.
A treated emerald can be beautiful and durable with proper care, but it’s important to:
- Avoid exposing the gem to heat, sudden pressure changes (like flying), or harsh chemicals.
- Remove jewelry when washing dishes with hot water or using cleaning products.
It’s important to know whether your emerald has been treated and to what degree. A reputable jeweler will disclose this information. You might also seek a laboratory certification if you want additional assurance. Keep in mind, though, that lab certifications are less common for colored stones like emeralds and may limit your choices or raise prices. Trust and transparency with your jeweler will help you make a purchase with confidence. Read more about emeralds here.

Secrete curated this beautiful and unique two stone engagement ring for our estate jewelry collection. It featured an old European cut diamond and an emerald cut emerald. Even though this ring is no longer available (a very special young woman from the fashion industry fell in love with it and wears it as her engagement ring), it’s a testament to the fact that emeralds are not too fragile to wear. This one is over 100 years old and still beautiful. If you love the look of this ring, contact us to design a similar ring for yourself.
Emeralds and Cocktail Rings: A Perfect Match
Emeralds have long been a favorite for cocktail rings, those statement-making pieces meant to dazzle. Their vibrant color instantly draws the eye, making them perfect for showcasing in bold designs.
Whether set in a protective bezel or a dazzling halo of diamonds, emeralds turn any cocktail ring into a timeless treasure. Just remember to treat them with care, and they’ll continue to shine for generations.

This custom ring from Secrete Fine Jewelry features an Asscher Cut Columbian emerald in a bold bezel setting. We love this as a cocktail ring or as a very cool engagement ring.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of Emeralds
If you have ever asked yourself what is the birthstone for May, now you know: emerald’s vibrant green perfectly symbolizes renewal, growth, and timeless beauty. Whether worn in a delicate necklace, a gorgeous engagement ring, or a bold cocktail ring, emeralds offer beauty that no other stone has.
Ready to find or design your perfect emerald piece? Schedule a consultation with Secrete Fine Jewelry and let’s create something extraordinary together.