The marquise diamond is making a major comeback. Sleek, vintage, and bold, it adds flair to any finger. But choosing the right one can feel like trying to pronounce it. Is it mar-key or mar-keez? Let’s break down how to pick the perfect marquise diamond and design a marquise diamond engagement ring that tells your love story in style.
Why Choose a Marquise Diamond?
The marquise diamond is famous for its elegant football-like shape and long, narrow body. According to the GIA, “Because of its shape, a marquise diamond will look larger face-up than a round diamond of the same weight. Many brides also appreciate the fact that a marquise will make their fingers appear longer and more slender.” GIA Blog
That extra visual size? Total bonus.
The Pronunciation and the History
So here’s the deal: the marquise diamond is named after the Marquise de Pompadour, whose lips supposedly inspired the shape. In French, “Marquis” is a noble title for a man and pronounced mar-key, like the Marquis de Lafayette. The female version, “Marquise,” is pronounced mar-keez. Since we’re talking about a gem inspired by a famously seductive lady, mar-keez is the winner. That said, many American jewelers use the terms (and pronunciations) interchangeably, so don’t stress it.
What to Know Before Buying
If you’re wondering how to pick an engagement ring, especially one with a marquise cut, here’s what to keep in mind:
1. Understand the Cut
The marquise cut is known for its tapered ends and long shape. This elongates the finger, but it can also create what’s called the bowtie effect — a shadowy area across the center of the stone. According to GIA, all marquise diamonds will have some bowtie, and a slight one can actually add depth and interest. However, a prominent bowtie may distract from the diamond’s brilliance. It’s especially common in stones with shallow or very deep pavilions. Slightly deeper pavilions and certain faceting styles can help minimize the effect. That’s why it’s essential to examine each diamond individually. You can find a marquise with plenty of sparkle and only a minimal bowtie.
2. Protect Those Points
The tapered tips of a marquise are beautiful, but they’re also fragile. Jewelers often use v-shaped prongs to protect the ends from chipping. In some cases, the diamond itself may be cut with what’s known as French tips — a specialized faceting style designed to reinforce the vulnerable points and reduce the risk of breakage.
Secrete made this beautiful east-west style marquise diamond engagement ring in brushed platinum with a bezel-set center stone. The bezel setting gives it a sleek, low-profile feel while protecting the fragile points.
3. Mind the Ratio
Length-to-width ratio matters. For a classic marquise diamond, the ideal ratio typically falls between 1.75 and 2.25. This range strikes a nice balance between length and width and creates that elegant, elongated shape many people love.
That said, beauty isn’t confined to rules. Some people prefer a rounder, wider marquise diamond that gives off a softer, more whimsical vibe. Others love the drama of a longer, leaner silhouette that adds even more length to the finger and works well in sleek, modern settings.
If you’re designing a custom ring, think about what suits your personal style and hand shape best. Try on different proportions and see what feels right to you. There’s no single “perfect” ratio — just the one that makes you smile.
Designing Your Unique Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring
Once you pick your stone, it’s time to talk design. Here’s where personal style really shines through.
Solitaire
A marquise solitaire feels clean, confident, and timeless. According to Vogue, marquise rings are enjoying a comeback thanks to their unconventional shape and vintage roots, especially as famous actresses like Selena Gomez have been seen wearing marquise diamond engagement rings. They’re ideal for someone who wants a ring that feels different without being over-the-top.
With Side Stones
Secrete Fine Jewelry designed this beautiful marquise cut diamond engagement ring with pear shaped side stones to give balance and width to the narrow center stone.
Adding side stones like tapered baguettes or trillions can ground the elongated marquise with symmetry and sparkle. Jewelry designer Grace Lee told Vogue that her clients often choose marquise cuts for their bold elegance and then customize the setting to create a story. Side stones can also add width to visually balance the slender proportions of a marquise diamond;.
Halo Settings
The beautiful and intricate halo of this marquise diamond engagement ring features various sizes of round diamonds and baguettes. This mid-century modern design harkens back to the 1940s and 1950s when these “ballerina rings” (also known as ballet halo rings and ballerina halo engagement rings) first came into fashion. The baguettes seem to dance around the center stone like a tutu.
A halo setting gives the marquise a big presence on the finger. It enhances sparkle by surrounding the center stone with a ring of smaller diamonds, amplifying its brilliance and making it appear even larger.
This style also adds a layer of protection to the marquise’s delicate tips, which are more vulnerable to chipping. Halos can be crafted with round, pear, or even marquise-shaped accent stones, and the style can range from classic to whimsical. Some halos are dainty and tight around the stone, while others are more dramatic with negative space or double layers.
East-West Settings
Secrete Fine Jewelry created this chic retro engagement ring with a marquise diamond set east-west on a thick yellow gold band. This stylish setting is unexpected, channeling 60s and 70s vibes.
This look flips the marquise horizontally and feels ultra modern. The east-west marquise is a favorite for fashion-forward brides, offering a geometric twist on tradition.
The horizontal layout can make the finger look wider or more balanced depending on the wearer’s hand shape, making it a smart option for those who want a ring that’s both flattering and fresh. It’s also an excellent way to highlight the diamond’s unique shape while keeping the overall silhouette sleek and low-profile. Some designers pair east-west marquise diamonds with thick gold bands for a bolder look, while others opt for ultra-thin bands that let the diamond float dramatically on the hand.
Vintage Vibes
Inspired by the 1960s and ’70s, vintage marquise rings often feature bold gold bands and funky settings, and for this reason it shines with its unique silhouette and glam heritage.
If the groovy 60s and 70s vibes aren’t for you, maybe an antique style marquise engagement ring is. Think 19th-century sophistication with milgrain, filigree, or decorative bands. The marquise shape dates back to French royalty, so it naturally fits into antique-inspired settings. If you need inspiration, search for images of antique “navette” rings. “Navette” means little boat in French, another name for the diamond shape.
How to Make it Truly Yours
Elyahu Araki, owner of Secrete Fine Jewelry, designed this stunning marquise diamond solitaire ring decades ago. Drawing inspiration from Ancient Egypt and the Art Deco Era,, this ring stands the test of time as a truly modern take on a marquise diamond engagement ring. Secrete has made many variations on this design, custom tailored to each client’s vision.
Every love story is unique, and your engagement ring should be as personal as your love story.
If you’re drawn to unique marquise engagement rings, Secrete Fine Jewelry can help you bring your vision to life. Whether you want a ring that’s edgy and modern or dripping with vintage romance, we can craft something that’s just for you.
Our team of expert jewelers is ready to guide you through every decision, from choosing your ideal marquise cut to picking the perfect setting.
Need a Hand? We’re Here to Help
Shopping for an engagement ring can be overwhelming. That’s why we created this engagement ring buying guide. Still not sure what you want? Visit our Bridal Collection for more about our custom design process.
When you’re ready to create a custom marquise diamond ring, book an appointment with Secrete Fine Jewelry. We offer in-person and Zoom consultations, so no matter where you are, we can help you design something unforgettable.
Make your marquise moment magical.
